Mural from cathedral in San Rafael del Norte

While San Rafael del Norte supported the Sandinistas back in the early days of the revolution, they were quicker than some to note a discrepancy between what the FSLN government was promoting and what their old general had espoused a generation earlier, and their support of Daniel Ortega flagged. Note one of Nicaragua's masterpieces in this town, and reason enough to brave the bumpy bus ride into the mountains to visit this town: the murals inside the town cathedral portray various biblical stories, but in them the devil is figured prominently, sporting the face and mustache of one Daniel Ortega, widely believed in the area to have betrayed the ideals of Sandino himself. And this criticism was launched during the revolution itself: wonder what they would think these days?

While you are in town, save a rainy afternoon for a tour through the General Augusto Cesar Sandino Museum, located just off the park. And for outdoor activities more strenuous than munching on a hot tortilla in the park, have a look at the Finca el Jaguar, a 105 hectare eco-reserve established to monitor migratory birds.