Shoreline at San Juan del Sur

If you haven't heard of San Juan del Sur yet, you will. It's long been a sort of traveler's retreat, offering quiet coastal charm and community rich with expats and passers-through who appreciate the laid back coastal lifestyle, best enjoyed with your feet up and a cold drink in one hand. Nicaragua's dramatic Pacific southwest is being billed as the best remaining real estate on the Pacific coast. That may be true: the southwest Pacific's innumerable bays and hillsides remain largely undeveloped around San Juan del Sur, the small fishing village where all the action is centered. The Pacific coastline rivals and even surpasses Granada in terms of development and construction. Tourism development, real estate rustlin', even the construction of retirement communities and golf courses, are all being spearheaded in this geographically exciting and diverse corner of the country. But long before anyone ever decided to invest in this corner of the world San Juan del Sur was a great place to visit, relax at the water's edge, and enjoy the funky, tranquilo vibe. And it remains so to this day.

San Juan del Sur and nearby communities are home to about 18,000 Nicaraguan inhabitants. Temporary residents include a near-constant stream of backpackers, well-to-do Nicaraguan weekenders, and an increasing number of big-spending foreigners, many of whom come for a few weeks to laze around the restaurants and half-heartedly scout the coastline for long-dreamed plots of paradise. Others arrive with surfboards under their arms, in search of the famed local waves which a year-round offshore breeze carves into curls; still others to fish, sail, or dive. Longterm expats include Spanish language students, ambitious hoteliers, creative community developers, and the requisite handful of prospectors and scavengers.

If you only plan to spend a week or so in Nicaragua, San Juan del Sur makes a great 1-2 day stop, especially if you're transiting Central America and want to keep moving. But look around and get a feel for this quiet corner of the world and you might decide you'd like to stay. In the meantime, dine on some fresh-caught snapper cooked in fruit juices, kick your feet back, and enjoy the sunset the way it was meant to be enjoyed.

A Relaxed Lifestyle